Plaça Catalunya

Until the mid-19th century there was no square here at all: it was military land outside the walls, no-man's-land between the walled medieval city and the fields where the Eixample would later be laid out by Cerdà. The current square took shape in several phases well into the 20th century, and today it functions as the city's true centre of gravity: almost every metro line, the Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat and Rodalies trains — including the airport connection — converge here.

At its centre stands the monument to Francesc Macià, and to one side the fountain with "La Deessa", Josep Clarà's sculpture that gives its popular name to that corner of the square. Around it, stately façades, the El Corte Inglés department store, and benches almost always occupied by pigeons and tourists checking their phones for directions. La Rambla starts here on its way to the sea, and Passeig de Gràcia climbs from here toward the Eixample.

It's a good reference point for getting your bearings on your first day, but at rush hour the metro exits get quite crowded; if you just want to cross it, the sides are better than the middle. Every New Year's Eve it fills with people eating the traditional twelve grapes, Madrid Puerta del Sol-style.

Frequently asked questions

Is Plaça Catalunya free?

Yes, open access 24 hours a day.

Why is Plaça Catalunya a good reference point?

Because almost every metro, FGC and Rodalies line converges there, including the airport connection.